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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
VOL. 219 = NO. 2
February 2011
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Fish can't resist a sunken ship.
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February 2011 | Departments
, Editor’s Note ! GEOGRAPHY Nat Geo Channel | What’s in a Surname? Letters ! America is a nation of Smiths, Your Shot ! Johnsons, and Sullivans—but ! also of Garcias and Nguyens. LEE RORTSD WY ! INTERACTIVE GRAPHIC Visions of Earth | — : CONSERVATION Inside Geographic bac nana Dinner Don’ts Flashback Africa’s ant-eating pangolin is Next Month one of many animals victimized by the poorly policed, illicit bush-meat trade. On the Cover ss sidewalk pe the SCIENCE iffel Tower going down : ‘ as well as up. Impossible! Bye-Bye, Helium But what does lie beneath The gas that pumps up party Paris? Photo by Fernand balloons and purges rocket
lvaldi, Getty Images engines is running out.
ARCHAEOLOGY Gold Rush Relics
Three boots, a bottle of vanilla, and a phonograph are among
the artifacts discovered ina sunken steamboat.
THE BIG IDEA
Your Brain on Football ------------
Even small hits to the head
can lead to brain deterioration.
The NFL is seeking solutions.
ee
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EDITOR'S NOTE
Linda Norgrove was taken hostage by the Taliban in September and died during a rescue attempt.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Local intelligence is everything when it comes to trav- eling in difficult conditions and dangerous places. Fixers, inside sources, and guides are the unsung heroes of every coverage. They point you in the right direction. They watch your back, saying, “Careful, not that close.” They tell you, “Go there,” or perhaps, “Don’t go there.”
Covering this month's story on opium, writer Robert Draper and photographer David Guttenfelder depended on many people, including Linda Norgrove—the Scottish aid worker taken hostage by the Taliban in eastern Afghanistan and killed in a failed rescue attempt in October 2010. Norgrove, Draper reports, spent evenings advising them on which of her projects to visit around Jalalabad’s outskirts—communities that had once relied on opium for subsistence—and which areas to avoid. “More than once,” he says, “Linda reminded us that certain roads were unsafe to travel. Sometimes, we had to take them anyway. sometimes, she did too.”
Draper and Guttenfelder were seldom out of danger. Kidnap- ping and being killed were constant threats for them and their sources. In Kabul a former government official allowed himself to be interviewed, knowing that if he was found out, he and his family would be killed. “Covering this part of the world is a crucial undertaking,” Draper says. “But | confess | spent the entire month with my heart in my throat.”
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ZOOM IN TO EXPLORE THE MAP.
MAP: MINA LIU; OLIVER UBERTI, NGM STAFF
SOURCE: JAMES CHESHIRE, PAUL LONGLEY, AND PABLO MATEOS, UNIVERSITY COLLEGE LONDON
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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SMITH IS THE MOST COMMON SURNAME IN THE US.
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Origin of surname
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CONSERVATION
Trafficking in Bush Meat bDuikers, pangolins, and brush-tailed porcupines aren't well-known animals in Europe or the U.S. But a new study estimates that each week, thousands of pounds of their meat moves illegally from Africa into European markets for human consump- tion, often via luggage.
At Paris's Charles de Gaulle Airport, an 18-day customs survey led to the seizure of more than 400 pounds of meat from wild animals, including cane rats and imperiled monkeys. One passenger was found carrying fresh croco- dile wrapped in plastic. Anne-Lise Chaber, who led the study by European scientists, notes that bush meat is an essential part of diets in some regions of Africa. But the poorly policed illicit trade contributes to declining animal populations and poses public health hazards. A luxury item in foreign markets, bush meat tends to command a premium price there.
In the U.S., the New York—New Jersey area and met- ropolitan Washington, D.C., are hot spots for import and trade, according to Heather Eves of the Bushmeat-free Eastern Africa Network. “Only 10 percent of the planet isn't accessible to large urban areas within two days’ time,’ she says. “A lot of smoked, dried, and even fresh bush meat can be transferred from the bush in that time.” —Luna Shyr
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Customs Officials in Houston last summer seized these pangolin carcasses (above) from a passenger arriving from Nigeria. Many species of pangolin (left) are popular as bush meat.
Bush meat seized at France’s Charles de Gaulle Airport In pounds, from country of origin, over 18 days
———
™ Central African Republic 324 MN ~Cameroon 60 MH Republic of the Congo 29 | Ivory Coast 2
PHOTOS: U.S. CUSTOMS AND BORDER PROTECTION (TOP); PHOTOSHOT HOLDINGS LTD/ALAMY. CHART SOURCE: ANNE-LISE CHABER
NG GRANT
Gold Rush Relics More than 30 feet below the sur- irc\er- me) mr-Wm 001 .<0) aml -1.<-mr-Meciall e)Wic-1e1 Gomme )iicialalem-Mmigstamellianl esi oe) mere) ale |lile)arcme)amial-m Or-lal-(elt-lamice)alil-] em Alitsanlal- ma kolclomele)le strike near the remote Klondike River launched a stampede to the territory, the A. J. Goddard—named for its owner, a U.S. businessman—became one of the first steamboats to ferry prospectors and their supplies from Whitehorse to Dawson. A storm sent it to its grave in 1901, but the frigid waters of Lake Laberge have kept it almost perfectly preserved.
since 2008 a multidisciplinary team of scientists has been oforerulaatsvaidiare maim ice)ameal0li(-1emcit>) aan \/al1>) (=) arslale Mm lecomele)ali=)alecy
bev roa O mi ae ne Okm 150 Sahat ALASKA | «Dawson i 5 ‘ lt 5 5|2 ati lie “ GG sic, Ootresiat oy, Laberge Gulf of 2 OF Alaska Juneau*
3-D IMAGE COURTESY BLUEVIEW TECHNOLOGIES, INC. NGM MAPS
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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Fel aliit=@rolale m=] c0) gle brel=1104-) @ and a spring-motored pho- aleye|e-le)amuaitamialgsiom a-1e10) 90 -p lam ial-manl(eljme)m-mce)elelan and-tumble life,” says James DY=\fef-tofome)mini-mlarjeeeliome) EeTUhd(ercl AN ces at-(=10) (016) Aum tale og = 1" 01010) am anlersj (em om aatl.<= ae bae(omaale)qomere)aaiie)ar-le)(-me —A. R. Williams
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Acts Di-io)at-lauiaarclel-mesl cole [a @r-lat-\et- hom mr-l.¢om melel-1ge(— reveals the 50-foot-long steamboat A. J. Goddard.
FIRST CAME FUZZ
Birds evolved from dino- ¥o10] eee ClO Mudalomelalel|ame)i their feathers may trace back even deeper in time, Com dal-mere)aalanle)am-lalei-s-100) 4 of dinosaurs and ptero- saurs, like the fossil at left. These flying reptiles were oxo)V(=1e-10 mM idamsaliamiltclaalsiales that may have looked Je)aalsidaliale mii <omaalomele)iia o) am talicm e)aleretcr-lalameralle.e
SHAGGY DING
Simple, quill-like filaments on the lat=t=(o M0] ©) ol-1an ale] a) qre)am(eyst:)1) Mm ey-(e1.¢ and tail of Beipiaosaurus inexpec- tus surprised paleontologist Xu Xing when he first saw this fossil in 1997. More elaborate dinosaur feathers had already been found, but “these structures were novel,” says Xu, of Beijing’s Institute of Vertebrate Paleontology and mecticyey-taldalae) ele) (ele h\mme)aateli(=) me | be nosaurs may have used feathers for insulation, but seven-foot-
Ko) ae m ={<1) e)/-Lekst-10 AU el 0 lle mar-h=) lal={>1e(~10 Mm com-jal-10 Mm ale) ml <-1-) Om al-r-18 STO MEST- hYAc 9,40 Aim al -\¥mm 0] g@) ey-10) hm ar-le m=! folk e)F-\vaielaveise)ammil <omaal-mant-lal-me) i a horse or a lion.”
BEIPIAOSAURUS INEXPECTUS, 125 MYA, CHINA; AT SHANDONG TIANYU MUSEUM OF NATURE
FRINGE CHARACTER
Until 2001 feathered dinosaurs were aalen ame) AlN me )ameal=mcr-lelarcvelalt-lame)e-lareia o) mi dal-mellalescr-l0lanca=t- mma ial (eam ialel[elelots birds. That year a fossil from the other e)g-lalevammdal-me)salitalcvevalt-latcmecielarslers1e foameal-mialc=iaar-ti(e)ar-|maat-la.¢-1em idem (eaten o1U/avi=1e Milrclaal=)alecmelamiecme-li Mm Auiaalelent aalela=mlalie)anarcdece)amelam acy itclereky-10/40hy scientists were reluctant to believe
fol [alessy-\0lecmcje me |icit-laldhmaccit-1c-10 mcem e)i gel bore featherlike structures. The 2009 relalalelelavex=jaal=iaim@e) mj i salit-lamiitclaal) ales ‘o)ale-alelial-]me)aalidalicveialt-lammarlalaelieyslep foi at= (ale (sie maat-lahmanliale tome 10) mellem dale trait evolve independently in the
1aV.OM ©) e-lalelal=somme) aul amaal=)| mere laniaalela ancestor?
PSITTACOSAURUS SP., 125 TO 121 MYA, CHINA; SMUGGLED SPECIMEN OF UNKNOWN PROVENANCE, CURRENTLY IN CUSTODY
OF SENCKENBERG RESEARCH INSTITUTE, GERMANY, PENDING REPATRIATION TO CHINA
JURASSIC PEACOCK
vo) ole) ad iavem-meler-1ac-1me)m (e)aremmalelelelalll¢-mict-lenl-lecm iin barbs arranged in vanes, pigeon-size Epidexipteryx may provide the earliest evidence of a dinosaur flaunt- Tate Mi ecw (st-1eal>) ecm ce) mre lise) -\\ mmole (eiam-> aue-Q\7-ler-lalme)ivlaat-le[= would have been virtually useless for insulation or 1iMY/1ale pm lO imim@mani(elalmatch-m-Untge-lei(-lemaal-li-t-me) mar-li(e)W-10)
Tate |hVite[UF-\kcwre) mm dal> Wj ol-(e7( >to com g-(e1ele]|a)y4-Me)al-m-laleliai-i a
EPIDEXIPTERYX HUI, 168 TO 152 MYA, CHINA; AT SHANDONG TIANYU MUSEUM OF NATURE
BEASTS UF A FEATHER
Until recently, feathers had been found only on birds and closely related thero- pod dinosaurs, ranging from pigeon-size Epidexipteryx to seven-foot-long Beipiaosaurus. The discovery of featherlike structures on ornithischians—beaked dinosaurs far removed from birds—hints that the ancestor of all dinosaurs may have had feathers. “Fuzz” on pterosaurs suggests that protofeathers may have ‘ ; ORNITHISCHIANS evolved even earlier, in the common ancestor of pterosaurs and dinosaurs,
FAMILY TREE OF ARCHOSAURS
DINOSAURS
<p Sauropods
» 4 | Basal archosaurs
\ SAURISCHIANS <> . , aa a ‘ Crocs 2) Pterosaurs theropods
FOSSIL FILAMENTS AND FEATHERS
Dinosaur fossils reveal nine featherlike forms, a: well as burnps similar to the feather-supporting quill knobs of living birds. Only the four feather
types in the right column are seen in living birds
Pilament branching
Central ti
} ; arising <> Quill knobs from the edue of Re
6 membrane
& | Hl . 6 hate Filaments joined Prominent 9) Unidentified re Re sph , 4 } ' mt the base to a with asym 4 hamenrrt : ? cantral tiiame|nt branchad
Psittacosaurs
lleterodontosaurids
Carnosaurs
Tyrannosauroids
Compsognathids
Therizinosaurs
Alvarezsaurs
Oviraptorosaurs
‘lTroodontids
Dromacosaurs
Scansoriopterygids
Aves (birds)
D> Concavenator
Se
= Ankylosaurs
> Ceratopsids
Tianyulong = Ornithopods
<> Stegosaurs
y v/
Sinosaurapteryx
y \G)
w] ‘cz < beipmeosaurus
2)
*4 Shuvuuia
i
Protarchaeopleryx
A
Caudipleryx
Anchiomis
af Of
a7
Sinornmlhosaurus
Microraptor
Epidexipteryx
1)
Neornithines
AL
Archaeopteryx
‘ Mrontiuecisee j VCOMMGIUSOITUS
leholornis {modern birds)
ART ASSISTANCE: LIL) ¥L SOURCES: XU XING, INSTITUTE OF VERTEBRATE PALEONTOLOGY AND PALEOANTHROPOLOGY; JAMES CLARK, GEOQHGE WASHINGTON UNIVERSITY
‘y _ ‘“«-
a ‘.
In an 1860 letter Charles Darwin despaired over how natural selection could account for such an impediment to flight as a peacock’s train. He later came up with sexual selection: Gaudy peacocks please peahens and pass on their genes.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
COMPOSITE OF THREE IMAGES; AT PEABODY MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, YALE UNIVERSITY
FURM AND FUNCTION
MW /iave mm e)|getsmel icy e)t-\var-Maal=tianl- ari ale diversity of feathers, each suited to a foyslma(ere|tolmnectc) Gm pmaal-mr-lpallit-lmce) anne) | rm e)aleM\s-lal-miclaom\c-lalo10 Menlo (eam merelell0 if-limlamil(e|aiem =\'Z0)0)a(e)amer-lamel-manle)a- creative, however, when it comes to oxolul atcial| ome(-iaalelarcieg-tele)atcmmant-la\me)i Wiel telame(~)e\-1a1eme)amere)(e)ai0|me)ielaal-t-y Various birds also use feathers to keep cool or warm, make or muffle noise, float or snowshoe, concentrate Yo) 0] atom Kominale)ge)'i-mal=t-lelale mm elell(emalstoicy assist digestion, carry water, and escape from predators by shedding feathers the way a lizard sheds its tail. “Feathers are the most complex daliaremaarcume! ce) \scmeleime)mial-m) diame)i any organism,” says Richard Prum of Yale University. “It is astounding how dalo)0lcy-lalefome)me|icleci- Mc egu (e140 |a=.oM0) 84 ifolet=sial-)an(emeig-t-1t>m 0)10|pat-(e[- mm
pie Clilemelicemeym ey-ie-lelty- Disk tail-feather tip, We) 0) e}(=t-e 10] alale melts) e)t=\\,
yi C1 ¢-\" ol -y-(eleler @e) nl =t-t-y- 1a]! Fell Mexe)'(-1a mm r-la melts e)t-\y
3 Ostrich (chick) Body feathers, first and sec- (oe) ale mcje-le[-mulaljelttalela
FEATHER 1, COURTESY PETER MULLEN, PH.D.; FEATHERS 2 & 3, INSTITUTE OF ZOOLOGY AND ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM, UNIVERSITY OF HAMBURG
1
2
a{-leMe) (cee) m el-]¢-[e | (-- Flank plumes, display
Spotted eagle-owl Wing feather with serrated edge, muffles sound
Scarlet macaw VViTaveMexe\(-lami-r-Usal-lemillejalt
FEATHERS 1 & 3, INSTITUTE OF ZOOLOGY AND ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM, UNIVERSITY OF HAMBURG; FEATHER 2, COURTESY PETER MULLEN, PH.D.
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yas CCo)(o(-Ja lm e)al=y-l-y- 141) Head crest, display
3 Northern flicker Tail feather, assists in climbing
4 Red-crested turaco Wing feather with copper- fore) aie-tialialem e)ielaatsialemilrelar Fl alo melts) e)f-\\7 FEATHERS 1 & 3, INSTITUTE OF ZOOLOGY AND ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM, UNIVERSITY OF
HAMBURG; FEATHERS 2 & 4, COURTESY PETER MULLEN, PH.D.
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TRUE CULURS
Colorful depictions of feathered dinosaurs—including most in this article—reflect artistic license. But in 2010 chicken-size Anchiornis made paleontological history by becoming the first dinosaur to have the color of its plumage brought back to life. A year earlier Jakob Vinther and his colleagues had discovered microscopic pigment sacs, called melanosomes, in the feathers of an extinct bird. The finding triggered a frenetic race to find colors in dinosaur feathers as well. In February 2010 a team of Chinese and British scientists announced that they had found melanosomes in individual feathers of several dinosaurs that would have produced black and reddish hues. Merely a week later...
Society Grant The discovery of color in dinosaur feathers was funded in part by your National Geographic Society membership.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Microscopic pigment sacs responsible for color in fossil feathers resemble “sausages and meatballs,” says Jakob Vinther, at Yale University. Sausage shapes impart black; meatball shapes, red and brown. Both appear ina sample from the cheek feathers of Anchiornis.
SEM IMAGE: JAKOB VINTHER
PHOTO: AT SHANDONG TIANYU MUSEUM OF NATURE
MORE
FEATHERED SURPRISES
Dinosaurs come back to life in their true colors on the National Geographic Chan- nel’s Dinomorphosis, January 27, 2011, at 8 p.m. ET/PT in the U.S.
...Vinther and his colleagues decoded the full-body coloration of Anchiornis seen here: rusty red crown, dark gray body, and black-and-white-striped wings.
Aial-maatclicme|a-t-lmr-laelelme) Southeast Asia is a fairly (ol g- lem o)alcr-tct- (alten 6laleimal= dances before a female Witte alicm=lale)aaarelehmuiiare i(cyohdals) ecwrelalal=10 me) el-1 08 revealing the spectacu- Elm lalalsiaecielarclercmciale) 8 fo) ai ialicmiele len laleiam\-ceis(e) ap Hundreds of jewel-like folex=1|| Mme) Mt =)\,=15) 010) 6M ¢=1 =) © yj Y alslatom=)aleiat-lalecie p V4, NG Sis iehi ae) sere) meley a-\\\ 12
ZOOLOGICAL MUSEUM,
- VIN Naat e Olea Visiel-1e
- 7
FEATHER EXPERIMENTS
The fossils of feathered nonavian dinosaurs (the three at left) and early birds (at right) from northeast China’s Liaoning Province are all about 125 million years old, but they show different ap- proaches to feathers and flight. Because they lived at the same time, sorting out stages in the evolution of flight is difficult.
Sinosauropteryx Colorful banding in the tail feathers suggests they were for camou-
flage or communication.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Microraptor
This dromaeosaur’s feath- ered legs may have acted like airfoils, providing lift for gliding from trees.
POISED FOR FLIGHT
The wings of a Confuciusornis (far right) and a modern cock of the rock (below) convey the evo- lutionary distance traveled since the origin of flight. Confuciusornis and other early birds retained primitive claws on their wings that may have been used for climb- ing or predation; narrow feathers and weak flight muscles suggest
it was not a powerful flier. In con- trast, the male cock of the rock’s wing is designed for agility and tricked up for display. A tiny feath- ered “thumb,” the alula, improves flight control. The protruding shaft on the first wing feather makes
a loud, rustling sound—adding acoustics to the visual display.
CONFUCIUSORNIS SANCTUS, 125 TO 120 MYA, CHINA
AT PEABODY MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY, YALE UNIVERSITY (ABOVE); AT SHANDONG TIANYU MUSEUM OF NATURE (RIGHT)
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A KEY STEP TO, SECURING PEACE WILL BE TO” ~~ WEAN AFGHAN FARMERS OFF GROWING POPPIES.
’ " . ‘ a —_ ~
od “~~, |
Opium Harvest
Years of war and upheaval that began with the 1979 Soviet invasion have made the opium poppy the mainstay of Afghanistan’s largely agricultural economy. The country produces more than 80 percent of the world’s illegal opium, generating as much as $4 billion a year.
TURKMENISTAN
BADGHIS 71
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IRAN
, ee G; : ~'% rd : = w Marjakiae - . 17” NIMRUZ KANDAHAR 49 768 ~/ HELMAND il 1,933 |
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
BADAKHSHAN : 7 56
TAJIKISTAN Kust Ney, ROS KONAR - ROK ; EUROPE Kab Ore abn # AFGHANISTAN f AFRICA mes a Bi i Fas Khyber Pass 28 NANGARHAR
OPIUM POPPY CULTIVATION
~ Considered poppy free Very low to moderate @® High to very high
| Nonagricultural land
218 Opium production by province, in metric tons, 2010
0 mi 100 -—e re O km 100
JEROME N. COOKSON AND MARGUERITE B. HUNSIKER, NGM STAFF SOURCE: ILLICIT CROP MONITORING PROGRAMME, UNITED NATIONS OFFICE ON DRUGS AND CRIME
ILLICIT OPIUM PRODUCTION 1980-2010, in metric tons
Afghanistan overtook Myanmar as top producer of illicit opium in 1991 and is expected to hold that spot even though its 2010 crop was halved by frost and disease. When cultivation plummeted after the Taliban banned poppy growing in 2000, stockpiled opium is thought to have sustained sales. Recent years of bumper production may have swelled stockpiles beyond 13,000 tons.
® Afghanistan 8,000 ~ Myanmar Rest of world
2010 data available only for Afghanistan
6,000 4,000
2,000
tT
1980 1985
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Taliban ban opium production
1990 1995 2000 2005 2010
JEROME N. COOKSON AND MARGUERITE B. HUNSIKER, NGM STAFF SOURCE: ILLICIT CROP MONITORING PROGRAMME, UNITED NATIONS OFFICE ON DRUGS AND CRIME
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Europe; with 1.5 million addicts, Russia is the largest consumer of heroin.
FEBRUARY 2011
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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. Upholstered with luminous sponges _and corals, the bridge of the U.S. uard Cutter Duane attracts .of smallmouth grunts—and »The ship was intentionally sunk in mh}: ¥aro)im .¢-\\m m1 ee oh comerg-t-14- an artificial reef 120 feet deep.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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This M60 is one of a hun- dred tanks sunk in 1994 in Fi | ,200-square-mile zone_ of artificial reefs off the Ps ia coast of Alabama. The © a Ps. 50-ton tanks survive hurr r ae ar canes better than lighter, ;
less stable objects. — ew: sae i
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Reef Balls are engineered, TUL eM IE: Wi or- | ew lale me) tall e ale} i (e)"Mmere)alerg-1(- Mi gt lon ro (=V AU] pou de-lal-j ele) a m'(-Jal (er (=> dU] ¢-1- 9m MoM CoM o Mole (-1-1 ake \\(-m ol-1-1pmel-)e)(e\i(-le B- across. Some have a reefs off East Coast ellrelam-itlar-ler-Mel-1-Jlelat-re states. Their structures
com e)colaireli-Misl-melcelwaig can remain intact for
fo) Mere) r-|i-w-lalem-|(¢f-[- 5 nearly 20 years.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Large sunken ships TLE ecelale Malel| (omer p FT) Mice) me (-ter-[e(-t-meo) am tal Y-y-}ilele) mm lel alate Macey only sea life but also adventurers seeking Mel (-Mdalcoltlelsmaltycol ale
ART: SHIZUKA AOKI
Fish swarm the bared ribs of the German sub- marine U-352, sunk by the U.S. Coast Guard ro) sm Or-|ol-M Mole) Collimm) (oats m@r-|colllit-Mmellgiive mu velace| War Il. Today the 220-foot wreck sits about 110 i(=1=) me(-1-) eM aMer(-t-] mi ClUljm—yic-t-] Me 10-) e-em sometimes obscured from view by fish.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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MOSAIC COMPOSED OF 33 IMAGES BY DAVID DOUBILET AND HAL SILVERMAN
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NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
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FEBRUARY 2011
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
Tam tal-mCTUb me) my (-> ¢ferom steel pillars supporting a gas platform are encrust- ed with tube sponges.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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tail snapper swim through
Neptune Memorial Reef, an
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underwater cemetery with decorative arches and col- umns installed on the ocean floor off Miami Beach. The cremated remains of about 200 people have been mixed’
with cement and ded‘into ‘memorial sculptures.” «9 - 3 : = NATIONALsG PHIC . FEBRUARY 2011 , F i oe
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GETTING THERE \ It involves manholes and endless ladders.
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WHAT TO WEAR Miner's helmets are good.
WHAT TO DO Work, party, paint—or just explore the dark web of tunnels
Under Paris)
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Tale-lame)(omeler-lga'am i ie)eg-m ar-la mi nolOManli(-1-me)meler-la\ae
dU alatsimsjarelcomdalcelele|amaat- mele laler-1(e)alome) mrs late
nearly all of them off-limits. Parties happen anyway. a
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
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Mills Sing bs Wegeee ee ,
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MOSAIC COMPOSED OF 22 IMAGES
Light Touches Dark Night falls on the famously well lit or} YAM’ (010s) Oo) a=t-Cefomele) are)(-]ar-lamelale(-ice|celelalemi-le)yiainiiame)i lanl aal=Jalsi=moiexe) Ol-m-l ale mye) an(-mel-lale|-1e
Phantom Fish A small pond lies under the Opéra Garnier, the old (0) ol-1¢- ale le lim lale-lelelidcelamcomaal-m\V(-14ge mm @rg-1-1-10 MolUlalale mere) alciiauleiiiela Tae dali kolol@\-m comer) aie-tiam(-tc-)antar-imi(elele(-10maal-melelaler-is(e)am e)iamial— ‘oXe) alo m (cml alat-1e)|<-10m e)’mt-1ee-Milcja mm’ al(ejam-la-m (10m Ome) 01-1 ¢- M100] 0) (0) -1-1y
PARIS CITY —uMIT Grande Arche gS de la Défense a
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Quarried areas of Paris
“)» Limestone =f Gypsum
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
I 6S
———Notre Dame
-—Roman arena
City With a Subconscious As Paris grew from Its ancient heart near Notre Dame, limestone quarries that Okm 1 had once been outside the city—and had provided stone for the cathedral and other structures—were built over.
VIRGINIA W. MASON, NGM STAFF
SOURCES: INSPECTION GENERALE DES CARRIERES; INSTITUT GEOGRAPHIQUE NATIONAL; OPEN STREET MAP
cach: = Tom S|
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Paris Through Time
Century by century, the city’s underbelly took on a geography all its own. The extent of the limestone quarries, or carrieres, beneath Paris was unknown until a deadly collapse in 1774 prompted Louis XVI to create a department to map them. The Inspection Général des Carriéres (IGC) is still at work today, monitoring the maze of tunnels it created to find and reinforce the quarries. By 1860 the last limestone quarries had closed; gypsum was quarried, for plaster of paris, until 1873.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
aii *® Paris
FRANCE
a A ¢
ALEJANDRO TUMAS; AMANDA HOBBS, NGM STAFF
ART: HERNAN CANELLAS
MAPS: SAM PEPPLE, NGM STAFF. CITY SKYLINE: JORGE PORTAZ SOURCES: GILLES THOMAS; INSPECTION GENERAL DES CARRIERES
ROMAN ERA i 12TH-17TH CENTURIES 18TH-19TH CENTURIES
““\— Present eee Quarries Lutetia ~~ Citylimit Eid va ~ = Limestone feat Boer
, = 1 : a PARIS : & Gypsum i Pa
First century 8.c. 12th century 16th century 18th century
1163-1345 | Notre Dame 1672 | Paris Observatory 18396 | Arc de T
ae wg th =i abiding Beam <> s — : te 1100s, quarrying _ 18TH CE
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ZOOM IN TO EXPLORE
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
20TH CENTURY-PRESENT
é ~\ Subway fines AT At S/N | t le Seow be =, , oe A a, : Had Wh | | | y —~s | a = t j “<4 @ iste. F xt tn vi . tt yr N Se )
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the Métro, for the 1900 — _ International Exposition. It__ ‘i + grayn inigoog! the “worl sest systems.
ALEJANDAO TUMAS; AMANDA HOBBS, NGM STAFF. ART: HERNAN CANBLLAS MAPS: SAM PEPPLE, NGM STAFP. CITY SKYLINE: JORGE PORTAZ
SOURCES: GILLES THOMAS, INSPECTION GENERAL DES CARRIERES
Beneath the Left Bank
“Mapping the underground is like mapping the soul of a place,’ says a Parisian cataphile who goes by the pseudonym Nexus. He created these maps, adding his explorations to city records. Most of the more than 180 miles of tunnels maintained by the Inspection Générale des Carrieéres are on the Left Bank; only a mile of them—the catacombs—is open to the public.
AREAOF AREA — 7
QUARRIED ENLARGED LIMESTONE
VIRGINIA W. MASON, NGM STAFF MAP: NEXUS. SOURCES: NEXUS; IGC; GILLES THOMAS
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
0
250 m 25 mi
‘ M IGC TUNNELS REMAINING LIMESTONE a {? A : os Val-de-Grace | Ri oe ey quarr pie : : ag" 7 2 , fos x é i x é | 1 yr Nr
f ia Paris Observaton lA tf 2 See
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ag a
= t 2 at ‘ , THE REMAINS OF QUARRIES i ae The limestone left behind in this heavily quarried be. ate.
_ area is colored yellow. Except where connected by INSPECTION GENERALE DES CARRIERES - tunnels, the old quarries between the limestone _ The IGC monitors the s ral integrity of — er eg remnants are largely filled with rubble and pillars the quarries and tunnels. des, ee HEN of stacked stone. The quarries linked by government- Ren S. a Ss built tunnels have reinforced walls and hold two (ys
#L Ys: | Sf =, e. Early IGC inspectors inscribed the tunnel walls as they mapped and reinforced the
types of pillars (art below).
j 1 Ae fox Public access to catacombs Sena acca es aay . yo Accessible, Inaccessible Area filled with closed to concrete to the public block access
RENAISSANCE PL Just belowground, ti Médicis Aqueduct v atop forgotten quar. soon began to leak i
Stacked pillars: Built from inferior rock
to support the ceiling after quarriers
removed the limestone pera 5 Sen goy? ol ce
EO Stairwell
Ceiling erosion
(bell hole)
ZOOM IN TO EXPLORE THE QUARRIES
Fa Aa i Sil 5 0 z ~ — , 7 FRENCH RESISTANCE “Sf 3 ‘c'. In August 1944, as Allied 2 SF | Y a s'%. forces advanced to liberate cu, Paris from the Germans,
9 hy the local French Resistance /
> eM "coordinated its tactics from DQUARTERS j - a shelter beneath the city ee) Sw water department. The SQ ° agi shelter linked to quarry i QUALITY STONE Zia, %, tunnels, so Resistance , ; _ Sculptorsaswellas | members could come and, , DIRECTION OF . builders valued the hard, / OF ae ik eae eee by Germans pt. CATACOMBS TOUR I 2° fine-grained limestone . | 2s __ who were using a building di y ics extracted from this area, // — on the street above. ‘> eo i
historic monument in 1994,
IGC TUNNELS we Tunnels created by the — . ie IGC as “research corridors” - to find and stabilize old © \ © quarries tend to follow the pattern of * eg Mate ! bh) 74, = Ree afl, ie - PORT MAHON QUARRY. ~| | Now walled offto stop ‘ [pr be hepsi ee = “<
Lad UMBING 1e 1623 %: as cre 13 ‘ies—and |
ito them. ey
a SS. caveIN' YR S74 ™ Three houses collapsed when 2 fe ie the ground gave way here in” nt 1879; unlike in some earlier’ » ™
a a a I -
Pe S fal ATACOMBS — —— 1e macabre allure © ‘the ossuary has» — 5~ ade it a tourist ~~ ‘traction since the. .
rly 19th century.
Pale) PT meci selec taal ie FEBRUARY 2011
Seekers Trespassing cataphiles, like the student above, V(cJalaela=miaicemigltomolela(-1em of-l>) mice) mn dalomcalel| me)m lomo) sal-mele-\)\ their own elaborate maps of its intricacies.
Pillars of Paris City inspector Xavier Duthil checks a
oj gUle (=m ilagi=s-)e)alom e)iit-tmmeleiiiane)’meler-laatianl-/amiamial-m-r-lahy 1ko10/0/-mu mien '(-16-mcomr-limeeler-\vamanlela>miat-lam-mer-)iilalemanlielalt oxo) | f-1 o\-\- mm alm ARO MW(0) 4 <~1ecme| (ele ||alemce)pa)es-mel-1(0) mah elige DY-Vaal-m cole l ave mtal-m e) (ele! <ome)mr- Mm nale)g-mel-1e10)¢-10)",-m e)|it-lmn=1 6-16] ed 17 centuries earlier by Seine boatmen in what was dal=1amOr-l| (Ob ece)aat-lam meic=1ar- mB) (je)t-\-le male) mlamdal-mOnl0 any WIVET=10 [gam dalowmilale Mm r-tmdalomilesjam\V/(e(-laler-Mllal.dialemar-lpalstomce) Taare te {=tome) Mm Cr-l ll (eme (ole omc10 (oa mr-tom @x-1anl0lalaveycm¢-lele)'/-) Mai ale sci horns likely symbolized male fertility. “It’s something like the Rosetta stone,” says curator Isabelle Bardies-Fronty.
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FEBRUARY 2011
Pele) FV meciselci salle
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ai lite | (ome) Of-1 a com iV colaam- Om Ol-)a(e)aeat-laler-mlamice)al@me)m\(e)ic-m By-lnal-mme) a dat=Wl(-Me (=m F-MOric-Mestolnn(- Moya tal-We adaer-)alc0lavmer-ltal=\ele-lkcMllantssicelal= 'e) (ole .<omer-lpal- mice )aame|er-lealssme)aminl-mm-1ial =t-la) Cum Malm alice) a\me)maal= quarries is a history of the city,” says archaeologist Marc Vire.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Paris Gets Down The sweat and rhythm of Saturday night fill the arched cellar of Chez Georges, in Saint-Germain-des-Pres. With TTaalid=te Mm cele)anm-lele)’{-1¢]c0]0|ale mm aat-la\’meri0| osom-l elem a-s-1t-10|e-lpleom-) 4ey-lale| ofoyWJa\'-tce Mme le-\ late el-1e) e)(- malcom) ey-(e1-1- me) alei-Ma-t-1-1a-10 me) mn ale
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
Under the Stones, the Beach In a sandy chamber known as the “beach,” a wave rolls across a wall painted (and
d=) ey-t1ald=ie pmo) mer-te-le)ali(=tom lam aal-Mci AU (-Me)mel-ley-lal-tsiom eal altnat- le er Hokusai. Such works can take hundreds of hours—the exc Uiadiarem olejar-|ivemeal-mer-lea\/lale lame) mio] 0) 0)|(-1-ealar- ml efele) < eyclaavmlam-lale)sal-lare[Ur-laavamr-laticya lV i(e1gl-)m@ial-\-1¢-1-10m (-lele)U-F MWViet- ta lalem arcr-telt-laa) op m-lalem\/aic-)arvl- Cer @nlY/f-lalialm (olam@ralo\'-1e-1- (0 ks (1a9 stlela mere) e)(=soe)maat-)] are] e-le)allomale)’(-]m cm B)i-1e)(-I (le meel-1 ala relate mel ale(=) ai ac-ia (cme lblaiavemial-m\t-¥4melerel0] ey-1e(e) amu imere)agle)iator history—Resistance fighters hid in the tunnels—with folk- tales of a subterranean green devil.
Pele) FV meciselci salle FEBRUARY 2011
=
'nc0] ats] eel 0lall(elalmice)aam- i ele)0|(-\\-lgemr-l|omelamila-iile|aitslecm e)e-\ead(eriare underwater rescues in the Canal Saint-Martin, whose construction Vests) 0 [=] a>10 Mm Om Nt] 0l0)(-10) am aM Ro lO/amm al-mer-lal-lmaulatcmice)samial-mel-)lal~ near the Bastille to the northern edge of Paris.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
FEBRUARY 2011
A
-.
=ie)ii(oltimcom-\| Ml it-] mm @r-ir-le)ali(ssmm ce) e)(-m-lalem Dle)aalial(e|0i-mal-r-(om(e)s dalom-10) ar-ler-mialgelelelam-lam-ley-talele)al-lemaestiameelalal-im-tie-)mr-e10)el-meliaiale in a flooded quarry. Like many of their peers, they love the freedom underground. “At the surface there are toe many rules,” Yopie says. “Here we do what we want. Where else is that possible?”
The Monkey Who MAVSoim boicoheaton@xe)(e!
The heavy fur of Chinas snub-nosed monkey is a boon in subzero winters. Its quirky face could help too.
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC
Pele) FV meciselci salle
INSIDE GEOGRAPHIC
issue’s “Evolution of Feathers,” was dead serious as he photographed the bird in his Brooklyn, New York, studio using a strobe fitted with an attachment that changed the light to ultraviolet (above). Clark used the UV setup to show how birds, capable of seeing in that spectrum, perceive them- selves and others. But “UV can cause damage to the human eye,” he says, “so that’s why I’m not looking as I'm firing the strobe packs.”
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
PHOTOS: ROBERT CLARK (BIRDS); DAVID COVENTRY (ABOVE)
FLASHBACK
Feathers in Her Cap Stylish Mae Vavrea tops off her turban with a black-tailed white Japanese bantam rooster at the Chicago Poultry and Pet Show in 1926. Though not pub- lished in the story, this photo was probably acquired for the Geographic’s April 1927 article “America’s Debt to the Hen.” In it author Harry R. Lewis notes, “For untold centuries the hen has been a companion of man in the onward march of civilization... The hen might be termed a universal favorite, in that a greater number of persons are interested and actually concerned with poultry than with any other form of live stock.” No mention was made of the bird, however, as headgear. —Margaret G. Zackowitz
PHOTO: ACME NEWSPICTURES INC./NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC STOCK
NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC FEBRUARY 2011
NEXT MONTH
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a
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